The man's outfit, in the sense of a lounge or business or office clothing, is a set of clothes made from the same fabric. This article discusses the history of casual wear, often called the business suit when created in dark colors and conservative pieces.
Video History of suits
Men's wear
The lawsuit is a traditional form of male formal wear in the Western world. For about four hundred years, suits of suits, trousers, and matching vests have been worn and removed. The rows of modern leisurely dresses are seen in the outline of the brightly colored royal dresses made from the 17th century (suit, wig, knee), which was shed because of the French Revolution. This evolution is seen recently in the use of stitches and coatings by the British in printing wool fabrics, the rise and fall of the popularity of ties, and the gradual use of vests and hats in the past fifty years.
Modern casual attire emerged in the late nineteenth century, but traced its origins to the simplified clothing standard made by the English king Charles II in the 17th century. In 1666, the restored king, Charles II, by example of the court of King Louis XIV at Versailles, ruled that in British Courts people would wear long coats, vests (then called "skirts"), a cravat (the predecessor of a tie), wigs, and knee pants (trousers), and hats. However, Jan Steen's paintings and other painters from the Dutch Golden Era reveal that such arrangements are in practice even earlier for informal purposes at least in the Netherlands if not Western Europe as a whole. In many Genre Paintings of Jan Steen in the Dutch Golden Age there are some examples of Men in Long Mantels or long skirt coats with shirts underneath and trousers, which match the modern standards and clothing design that is much tighter than the British Royal standard as discussed earlier.. While painting Pieter Bruegel the Elder reveals that it was even earlier the norm in the Netherlands.
District
In the early 19th century, Beau Brummell's British costume redefined and adapted this style, then popularized it, leading European men to wear a neat, tailored outfit, adorned with carefully tied ties. The simplicity of their new clothes and gloomy colors contrasted with the extravagant and embarrassing style just before. The influence of Brummell introduces the modern era of men's clothing that now includes a modern suit and tie. In addition, he introduced an era of care and new styles, including regular bath (every day) as part of a men's toilet. But French paintings from 1794 onwards reveal that Brummel may have only adopted and popularized French post-revolutionary outfits that included a tailcoat, a double-breasted waistcoat and a pair of trousers full of Hessian shoes or regular sized shoes. Nor is there an 18th century Brummel painting to build its innovation.
In this district period, the prominent upscale outfit introduced by Brummell for everyday wear is a very fitting and darkly tailed tailcoat with unmatched trousers (usually pale), pale vests, white and cravat shirts and boots high.
Victorian
Toward the beginning of the Victorian period, the skirt mantle, initially not only black, became popular, and quickly became the standard daily wear for men. From the mid-19th century, a new (then informal) coat, the morning coat, was acceptable. The clothes are less formal, with the front cut, making it suitable to wear while riding. The morning dress and the skirt coat dress do not fit, because they wear trousers that do not match the color or fabric; suitable vests and trousers are considered unofficial and can be described using short-term terms copied . The raincoat is still a standard outfit for all formal or business events, and a tail suit is worn in the evenings.
Towards the end of the 19th century, modern leisure wear was born as a very informal outfit worn only for sports, domestically, or on the beach.
In line with this, a dinner jacket was found and worn for an informal evening. It came from a white tie (a dress code attributed to a night-tail suit) but quickly became a new outfit, a dinner jacket, with a new dress code, originally known as a 'dress room' and a later black tie. When imported into the United States, it is known as a tuxedo. The 'dressing room' was initially only used for small private meetings and a white tie ('white tie and tail') was still used for large formal events. The 'dressing room' is slowly becoming more popular for larger events as an alternative to full evening dresses with white ties.
Edwardian
Early Edwardian era in the early 20th century brought a steady decline in the use of mantle skirts as the morning coat rose in relative formality, first becoming acceptable to entrepreneurs, then became standard clothing even in the city. The casual shirt was slowly received as true beyond the original setting, and during the Edwardian period gradually began to appear in the city. Although still provided for private meetings, usually without women, black ties become more common.
In North America, the "sack suit", casual clothing pieces, saw a huge increase in popularity, and, except for the shoulder, it was unsuitable, loose, and informal, as it did not have a dart.
Inter-war
After the end of the first World War, most men adopted a short veil of clothing. Long coat is quickly out of fashion for everyday wear and business, and the morning coat gets the current "formal" classification. During the 1920s, short clothing was always worn except on official occasions during the day, when the morning coat would be worn. Older and more conservative men continue to wear coat skirts, or "Prince Albert's coat" as they are known.
In North America, for evening events, a short dinner jacket almost replaces the long tail of "full dress", which is considered an "old hat" and worn only by old conservative men. In the UK, a black tie became accepted as a common informal alternative to a white tie, although at that time the style and accessories of the black tie were still very fluid.
In the 1920s, the men began wearing long wide trousers with their clothes. These trousers are usually sized 23 inches around the cuff. Younger men often wore wider trousers known as "Oxford bags." Trousers also began to be handcuffed shortly after World War I and this style lasted until World War II. The first pants began to be worn wrinkled in the 1920s. Trousers worn very tight throughout the 1920s and this mode remained popular until the 1940s. The stylish single-breasted suits of the 1920s and double-breasted suits were mainly worn by older and more conservative men. In the 1920s, very fashionable people often wore a double-breasted waistcoat (with four buttons on each side) with a single-breasted coat. The collar on a single-breasted jacket worn fashion is peaking and often widespread. In the early 1930s these styles continued and were often exaggerated.
Before 1935 (and again in the 1970s), men preferred jackets and more appropriate vests. In 1935, a complete style change took place. Loose fitting coat was introduced, the pants began to taper at the bottom and the coat jacket began to have tapered sleeves. These new trends were reluctantly accepted by men at first. At first the vest was made with a traditional style that fit and comfortable. In 1940, the vest began to be made with a loose style that made it uncomfortable to wear. In the fashion magazine that day, the men complained how these new vests went up when they happened to sit or bend down. The fashionable men change their preference to the current double-breasted coat jacket and it will remain in fashion for the next two decades.
At this time, the morning dress is replaced by a semi-formal afternoon, known in North America as a baby carriage. It's quite popular, but actually has lived longer with the morning coat. Since the 1950s it has been used as a black version of casual wear as an informal look to a dinner jacket. In modern times black space clothes have become popular for daytime wear.
Post-war
Throughout the 1940s and 1950s the trend was to simplify and modernize the lawsuit as much as possible. For example, in 1960 the size of the collar had shrunk to a very small size. Jacket suits are also cut as straight as possible without any indication of the waist line. The rationing of the fabric changes the style significantly, contributing to a major decline in the popularity of many cuts, such as double-breasted suits.
The New York Times Style Magazine describes an iconic setting of the era, a gray flannel suit:
Back in 1955, when denim was the culmination of the revolt, Sloan Wilson's novel The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit transformed the classic man into a synonym for drab, middle-class conformity... Flannel has a humble beginning - this name is said to have originated from "gwlanen," Welsh for woolen fabrics - and was used for undergarments in the 19th century. In the 1880s white flannels were used for summer sports; in the 1920's getting gray without a season becoming a favorite. When the Prince of Wales wore gray flannel trousers on his trip to America in 1924, they were fired by colleagues on both sides of the Atlantic. Cary Grant and Fred Astaire then brought the trend up to the 1940s. The archetypal flow of the postwar era was then explained by the Esquire-style encyclopedia as a conservative, careful, cautious man who carried a shoebox and considered a red-to-red shirt as one of his only scoundrels.
In the late 1960s and early 1970s Nehru's jacket styles were worn by some in the United States - Johnny Carson for example.
In the 1970s, a suit jacket fitted once again became popular once again and this style allowed the vest's return. This new three-piece suit became associated with disco and cultural music, which was specifically popularized by the movie Saturday Night Fever, where the tight vest is the basis for that mode. The three-piece tight outfit was likened to a discotheque culture. Conservative social reactions to disco music culture put an end to the popularity of a three-fitting suit.
In the late 1970s, some brands, notably Haggar, began introducing the concept of "separate suits", separate coats and trousers that allowed a man to buy the right coat and pants size. "The concept of 'Custom Fit Suits' is Haggar's innovation that allows men to buy jackets and pants separately, by size, which eliminates the need to sew pants." '
The 1980s saw a tendency to simplify the lawsuit once more. The jacket became looser and the vest completely wiped out. Some makers of suits continue to make vests, but these tend to be cut very low and often only have four buttons. The waist line in the suit fell down again in the 1980s to a position well below the waist. In 1985-1986, a three-piece suit was on its way out and paved the way to cut a double-breasted suit and two single-breasted pieces.
The late 1990s saw the return of the popularity of a two-button three-button suit, which then returned out of fashion some time in the first decade of the 21st century.
Maps History of suits
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The earliest women's attire was the habit of riding, which consisted of a suit or a tailored jacket and matching skirt from the 1660s. Practical and sturdy, riding habits are not only worn on horses, but also for travel and other daytime activities. The jacket-and-skirt ensemble is not meant to ride appearing in the 19th century later. Both riding habits and walking apparel reflect the skirt and arm style of the day. Until the 1910s, suit and ensemble dresses were usually described as "costumes" rather than clothing, and the term "suit", as applied to such devices, was unusual until after the First World War.
In the first half of the 20th century, clothing circumscribed into municipal daytime costumes common to women, at work and beyond; dress suits featuring soft cloth and "feminine" details, and coke clothes worn for semi-formal events in the mid-century.
Under the influence of Dress for Success, women's uniforms dressed in skirts, adjustable shirts, and belts flourished in the 1970s and 1980s. Pantsuits (dress ladies with Eastern-style pants) were introduced by designers AndrÃÆ'à © CourrÃÆ'èges in 1964 but only gradually accepted as formal business attire.
The current effect of casual wear
Over the past half century, the use of suits has become much more common than ever and is now usually reserved for formal and business activities. During the 1990s, many businesses in North America adopted a casual dress code, beginning with "casual Friday" and then expanding throughout the business week. The neglect of uniform dress codes has caused great confusion over what counts as the right business attire. Recently, some businesses have reinforced the use of clothing, although they never again become as common as they once were. Similar trends have occurred in Europe.
Contemporary trends
Although a customized European man's suit is usually regarded as the main conservative costume of Western culture, Eastern influences or excessive variations in adjustable settings have been adopted by many subcultures over the last century as a matter of fashion or social identity. In early 1922, Emily Post answered what she called "the American strange suit" in her influential guide Etiquette :
- You will see it everywhere, on Broadway in every city and Main Street in every town, on sidewalks and beaches in beach resorts, and even in remote farm villages. It appears to hit your face year after year in all its remarkable variations: the waistline under the arm hole, "deceiving" the little belt, what's not in the cuffs; trousers are so narrow that you are afraid to explode in front of your eyes, the pockets are placed in every position, the buttons cluster together in tight rows or reduced to one. Such a progressive style may not reflect international tastes or etiquette.
Some of the non-traditional styling styles of the past century include:
- The Jazz suit in the early 1920s was very high-waisted and fit and worn with fairly high-waisted trousers and short trousers and exposed the wearer's socks.
- Zoot's shirt from the late 1930s and 1940s.
- Western settings, a western outfit featuring jackets adapted to "western" details such as axes or arrowheads.
- Nudie Suits, a highly decorated form of Western clothing.
- The Beatle suit, inspired by Pierre Cardin's collarless jacket, comes from Edwardian clothing and Nehru Indian jacket.
- Mod setting, 1960s mode, and again in the early 2010s. Characteristics include very slim pieces, narrow collar, three or four buttons and a very tapered waist. Usually single-breasted and gray. Fabrics generally consist of parts of mohair, tonic, houndstooth, or two tone fabric.
- Safari settings, 1970s mode. Patterned after military uniforms worn in hot climates, it consists of trousers (long, but sometimes short) and short-sleeved jackets with patch pockets of light suit fabrics, usually shades of beige or blue pastels and green. It is worn with short sleeves, most of the neck design is open, but sometimes with a tie. Another style associated with this is casual wear, which has a jacket like a long sleeve.
- The Disco suit, a 1970s fashion with excessive collars and trousers blazing and usually tie removes, often in white or brightly colored polyester fabrics, the jacket is based on a popular jacket of the 1930s.
- Power suit of the mid-1980s and early 1990s. This is a double breasted suit marked with sharp cuts, wide shoulder pads and rigid stiffness.
See also
- Mao suit
Bibliography
- Antongiavanni, Nicholas: The Suit , HarperCollins Publishers, New York, 2006. ISBN: 0-06-089186-6
- Byrd, Penelope: The Male Image: British menswear 1300-1970 . B. T. Batsford Ltd, London, 1979. ISBNÃ, 0-7134-0860-X
- Croonborg, Frederick: Men's Blue Tailor . Croonborg Sartorial Co., New York and Chicago, 1907
- Cunnington, C. Willett; Cunnington, Phillis (1959): English Costume Handbook in the 19th Century , Plays, Boston, 1970 reprint
- Devere, Louis: The Practical Handbook on the Crown Center System (London, 1866) was revised and edited by R. L. Shep. R. L. Shep, Mendocino, California, 1986. ISBNÃ, 0-914046-03-9
- Doyle, Robert: The Art of the Tailor , Publications Press Sartorial, Stratford, Ontario, 2005. ISBN: 0-9683039-2-7
- Druessedow, Jean L. (editor): Men's Fashion Illustration from the Century Substitution Reprint. Originally published: New York: Jno J. Mitchell Co. 1910. Dover Publication, 1990 ISBNÃ, 0-486-26353-3
- Mansfield, Alan; Cunnington, Phillis: English Costume Handbook in 20th Century 1900-1950 , Plays, Boston, 1973
- Stephenson, Angus (editor): Oxford Shorter Dictionary . Oxford University Press, New York, 2007
- Author unknown: Standard Jobs Cutting Men's Clothing . 4th Edition. Originally the pub. 1886 by Jno J Mitchell, New York. ISBN: 0-916896-33-1
- Vincent, W. D. F.: Practical Cutter Guide. Vol II "All types of body coats" . The John Williamson Company, London, circa 1893.
- Waugh, Norah: Men's Clothing Cuts 1600-1900 , Routledge, London, 1964. ISBNÃ, 0-87830-025-2
- Whife, A. A (ed): The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier . The Caxton Publishing Company Ltd, London, 1951
References
Source of the article : Wikipedia